Black Chicken? Modesto wine columnist on Napa Valley’s historic Zinfandels
If you’re going to the ZAP EX Grand Tasting in San Francisco, make sure you taste the Zinfandels from Robert Biale Vineyards. Last year the Navigator and I were completely blown away when we tasted their flagship wine, the Black Chicken Zinfandel. Biale has set the standard for producing heritage Zinfandels by saving the old vine California classics. I did a bit of research online and found out Biale Vineyards produces 20-plus Zinfandels from historic head trained vines, some dating to the 1880s.
The Biale family began growing Zinfandel in 1937, but even earlier, Pietro and Cristina Biale worked in Zinfandel vineyards on Mt. Veeder in the early 1920s. In 1942, Pietro was killed on his second job at a local rock quarry. His 13 year son, Aldo, had to step up and take over his father’s chores, including winemaking taught to him by his uncle Angelo. Not all of Aldo’s grapes were made into Black Chicken Zin. Most of the grapes were sold to St. Helena’s Cooperative Winery. They were processed into wine with other similar old vine vineyards filling many bottles of good quality Gallo Hearty Burgundy.
In 1991, the third generation saw an opportunity to take a position as preservationists of Zinfandel’s rich tradition in Napa Valley. They decided to treat Zinfandel more like Pinot Noir because of their physical similarities and cool climate influences. The style is vibrant and elegant as opposed to so many of the heavier “fruit bomb” versions that were popular for so long in the 1970s and ’80s.
Biale Vineyards estate grapes account for about 25% of their total production. The rest of the grapes come from other family vineyards in Napa Valley and Sonoma. Historic vineyards like Bedrock, Monte Rosso, Morisoli, Nonna’s, Pagani, Palisades and Stagecoach are just a few that contribute to Biale Vineyard’s award winning Zinfandels.
While tasting, you might want to ask the server why is it called Black Chicken Zinfandel. Or maybe do some research on your own. It’s a good story. www.bialevineyards.com.
Wine Lines of 2023
Most wineries were still adjusting from the pandemic last year, requiring tasting reservations, especially on weekends. By doing this the winery could staff accordingly and it lets the taster set their own time and know what the charge will be. Most regions accept walk-ins if space is available. I’m shocked at how expensive wine tasting has become. Tasting fees and the wine markups restaurants charge are my biggest complaints. I always ask the restaurant what their corkage is when making a reservation. Most of the time it is $15, but $25 is really pushing it. Cheers to all restaurants that have half price wine night!
The Navigator prefers a light red wine which is Pinot Noir. For most of the year Costco had La Crema Sonoma Coast and ‘J’ Pinot Noir Russian River, both under $18 which elsewhere sell for $24. And now, of course, they’re gone, so the hunt continues. The best deals of the year were Portuguese Red Blends like the 2020 Dona Flor, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Touriga Nacional. It’s an incredible Tinto for just $6.99 at the Grocery Outlet. Adios to 2023 and on the 2024 Cheers!
Questions? Comments? Find me on Facebook or at rgwinton@yahoo.com.