Corn fungus? Grasshopper tacos? Unique, must-try Mexican dishes at Modesto-area restaurants
What better way to celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month than with a culinary tour of Mexico? No need to renew your passport, because all that’s required is a curious mind and a hearty appetite.
Though favorites like tacos, burritos and nachos are popular in this area, there are a number of less common regional and authentic dishes waiting to be discovered. Here is a roundup of some of Stanislaus County’s most unusual offerings.
Quesadilla de huitlacoche at Tacos El Jalapeno truck
813 Paradise Road, Modesto
Eating fungus may seem like a risky idea, but just like a mushroom, huitlacoche is a food with roots in Aztec culture. Called the Mexican truffle and known as corn smut in the United States, this fungus infects corn during periods of heavy rainfall, turning it dark and ballooning the kernels into bulbous bites. Huitlacoche is highly nutritious, containing almost all essential amino acids, the most abundant being lysine. The name is derived from the Aztec language known as Nahuatl and today is considered a delicacy in Mexico, found in various dishes from street food to Michelin star kitchens. In Modesto, there is only one place known to serve this specialty. Parked on Paradise Road, the Tacos El Jalapeno food truck offers huitlacoche in a quesadilla, which lends perfectly to the smoky, savory and earthy flavor of the fungus. Proprietor Lucila Martinez said this is something you would usually find only in Mexico. She serves it with jalapenos and cheese in a large handmade corn tortilla for $11.
Mexico City breakfast torta at Mr. Taquito
4800 Dale Road, Suite 101, Modesto
Known as one of the top culinary spots in the world, Mexico City has no shortage of spectacular foods. One particular sandwich has locals and tourists alike lining up from sun-up to sundown. The torta de chilaquiles is the creation of a small food stand called La Esquina del Chilaquil. The sandwich, or torta, starts with a soft roll known as a bolillo and contains a thin fried chicken cutlet, beans, cheese, crema and, the star of the sandwich, chilaquiles smothered in salsa verde. Created as a way to use leftover corn chips, chilaquiles are commonly simmered in red or green salsa and served with eggs as a breakfast item. Mr. Taquito owner Jake Zinuga said, “I discovered and tasted this sandwich in Mexico City and it was so good I knew I had to create my own version.” Zuniga named it the Mexico City Torta and serves it all day, for $15. His version includes red and green salsa smothered chilaquiles with cheese, refried beans, eggs, onions, sour cream and cilantro. It’s big, messy and spectacular.
Enfrijoladas and tacos de chapulin at Cocina Azteca
3006 Fourth St., Ceres
Nestled in downtown Ceres, Cocina Azteca offers food and hominess you would find at your abuelita’s house. On weekends, it presents a Mexican brunch that has customers lined up out the door. On the regular menu are two truly unique specialties. Hailing from the state of Oaxaca, enfrijoladas are similar to enchiladas but differ in their composition. Thought to have been created as a way to repurpose stale corn tortillas and leftover beans, enfrijoladas are a common Oaxacan breakfast food. Cocina Azteca serves it in a bean sauce stuffed with your choice of chicken, nopales (cactus), potato or cheese and topped with lettuce, queso fresco and sour cream for $14.
For a truly Oaxacan experience, opt for the tacos de chapulin, or grasshopper tacos. Believed to have originated in the 16th century, chapulines were eaten by the handful as a sustainable source of protein. Today, you will find this delicacy served in a variety of ways. With a satisfying crunch and a nutty, mild flavor, chapulines are a true foodie adventure. Cocina Azteca serves its seasoned chapulines on a corn tortilla with beans, pico de gallo salsa and purple cabbage for $5.
Morisqueta at Frida’s Taqueria Ajua
2101 W. Rumble Road, Suite C, Modesto
Hailing from the state of Michoacan, morisqueta is more than your usual rice, bean and meat dish. The meal consists of steamed white rice mixed with beans and a sauce of tomato, onions and garlic. There are many versions of this food that can include a variety of proteins and even fried eggs. It is commonly served with chips, tostadas or tortillas. “This is a very traditional dish in Mexico, less common here but people seem to really like it,” says owner Angel Reyes. Frida’s Taqueria Ajua makes its the authentic way, with rice, beans, cotija cheese and sour cream topped with costilla de puerco (pork rib) in your choice of red or green sauce for $15.99.
Pescado zarandeado at El Coco Loco Mariscos and Mexican Grill
413 S. Riverside Drive #B., Modesto
The only thing more satisfying than having an agua fresca cocktail on a Mexican beach is a plate of fresh mariscos directly afterward. One of the states that does it best is Nayarit. Seafood dishes hailing from this region include ceviches, aguachiles and a table stunner known as pescado zarandeado. Thought to have originated in pre-hispanic times more than 500 years ago, this method for cooking fish starts with hot coals and smoky wood. The fish, commonly snapper, grouper or any other large whitefish, is split from head to tail and cooked over the heat. The combination of heat sources creates an earthy, smoky, broiled flavor and a feast for the eyes and stomach alike. The fish is then served whole and shared family style. At El Coco Loco, the owners hail from Nayarit and wanted to offer something special and traditional. Manager Manuel Fernandez said, “My family is from Nayarit and wanted to bring something truly unique from home. I have met people coming all the way from Bakersfield and Yuba City just to have this and been brought to tears because it reminded them of home.” Because the dish requires special preparation and cooking, it is served only on weekends and must be enjoyed on site. Pescado zarandeado is served with salsa, rice, beans and tortillas. It starts at $37.99 and can increase based on the weight of the fish.
Are there any unique Hispanic foods left off the list? Let me know at mfigueroa@modbee.com.
This story was originally published October 3, 2024 at 4:00 PM.
