Biz Beat

Longtime downtown Modesto restaurant closes its doors; popular owner opens new chapter

After 17 years of feeding Modesto’s tummies with his food and our souls with the arts, Barkin’ Dog Grill owner Hanibal Yadegar has closed his downtown restaurant.

The spot opened in 2004 and remained one of the stalwarts of the city’s early 2000s downtown revival. And, just like our other longtime restaurants, it survived the Great Recession and the ongoing pandemic along the way.

But now, Yadegar said, it’s simply time to move on.

The 11th Street restaurant in the heart of downtown had been a popular lunch and dinner spot from the start. Despite continued strong business and a loyal customer base, he has decided it’s time for his next chapter.

“I have been at this for 17 years now and I am kind of burnt out. And looking back, that burnout really came since my wife’s passing,” he said. “That’s basically the biggest part of it — that I just couldn’t do it anymore.”

Yadegar started Barkin’ Dog with his late wife, Evin Olsen Yadegar. Together they turned the brick-walled eatery into a hub for local musicians and artists, hosting live music, poetry and more.

Owner Hanibal Yadegar pauses during a lunch rush at Barkin’ Dog Grill in Modesto, Calif., on Thursday, Dec. 16, 2021.
Owner Hanibal Yadegar pauses during a lunch rush at Barkin’ Dog Grill in Modesto, Calif., on Thursday, Dec. 16, 2021. Andy Alfaro aalfaro@modbee.com

But in February 2017, Yadegar said his wife, who suffered from bipolar disorder, was having a manic episode when law enforcement became involved. She was later shot and killed by Stanislaus County sheriff’s Deputy Justin Wall after a slow-speed chase that ended in Ripon.

Last week, a San Joaquin county jury returned a not guilty verdict for Wall, who was charged with voluntary manslaughter in the shooting. The decision puts a final bookend on an almost five-year legal journey for Yadegar.

He called the verdict a “punch in the gut,” but also said he was grateful they were able to have their day in court.

“She didn’t get what she or I wanted. But, you know, life doesn’t always give you what you want,” he said. “I need to put this behind me. I’ve been dealing with this for the past five years. I’ve been carrying this burden and it’s time for me to move on.”

In 2019, Yadegar settled his wrongful-death lawsuit against Stanislaus County for $7 million. Around the same time, he cut back his hours and started serving only lunch at the Barkin’ Dog.

He said the demands of running a restaurant made it difficult for him to spend time with his son, who’s now 14 years old. That, coupled with his lease running out, made the decision simple despite all the great memories and friends he’s made through the business.

For a man who named his restaurant after a barking dog, Yadegar is quick with a hug and a smile, and he’s on a first-name basis with many of his customers.

What he brought to the 11th Street space spoke volumes.

The walls of the restaurant were adorned with works from local artists. In the entryway hung a collage of local and national luminaries — from the late Modesto legend Ernie Bucio to Broadway icon and former Modestan Carol Channing. The Modesto Area Music Association Award for Best Restaurant/Cafe the eatery won in 2013 was proudly displayed inside as well.

“All these things — the arts, music, poetry — they bring blessings and essence to a place and (the artists) all have done that here,” he said. “Honestly, it’s monumental. It’ll be in my memory forever.”

Barkin’ Dog Grill owner Hanibal Yadegar, left, shares a toast with longtime customers Mark Looker, right, Kevin Leppla and Darin Willliams (not pictured) in Modesto, Calif., on Thursday, Dec. 16, 2021.
Barkin’ Dog Grill owner Hanibal Yadegar, left, shares a toast with longtime customers Mark Looker, right, Kevin Leppla and Darin Willliams (not pictured) in Modesto, Calif., on Thursday, Dec. 16, 2021. Andy Alfaro aalfaro@modbee.com

Near his last day open, this past Friday, Dec. 17, people streamed into the restaurant for one last chili-cheese dog or a Classic MAMA Burger. Handshakes and hugs abounded.

But the end of one thing is often the beginning of something else. And fans of Yadegar’s food will likely find delicious solace in his next endeavor.

Yadegar has purchased a food truck and plans to take it to the Turlock Sports Park. The soccer and sports complex on North Soderquist Road across from the Stanislaus County Fairgrounds hosts youth soccer leagues and other youth and adult sports groups. Yadegar and a partner run the facility, which can also be rented for events.

But what it hasn’t had is a food vendor, so Yadegar is stepping in. Expect the truck to open early next year, and bring some of the Barkin’ Dog favorites with it.

Yadegar said the sports park and rental properties he owns in the region have become the majority of his income in recent years. So he’s able to leave the restaurant grind, which particularly during the pandemic has been a roller coaster of opening, closings, staffing shortages and more.

But, he said, it won’t be the hard times he remembers.

“For the last few days and weeks, I’ve been reflecting. Yes, the restaurant business is tough, but I enjoyed it. I’m a people person, I loved interacting with people. To me, the highlight of what we’ve done in there is all the wonderful people I’ve met,” he said. “That’s what we always talked about, me and my late wife. We always said if we get nothing out of this restaurant, the fact that we met so many good people and so many connections meant the world to us.”

The support since word got out of the restaurant’s closure has been “overwhelming,” he said, and fills his heart.

“I have made a living for the past 17 years and been able to support my family from this restaurant and meet all these wonderful people,” he said. “It’s been tremendous, honestly.”

Owner Hanibal Yadegar and his son Atanous, 14, at Barkin’ Dog Grill in Modesto, Calif., on Thursday, Dec. 16, 2021.
Owner Hanibal Yadegar and his son Atanous, 14, at Barkin’ Dog Grill in Modesto, Calif., on Thursday, Dec. 16, 2021. Andy Alfaro aalfaro@modbee.com

This story was originally published December 20, 2021 at 7:30 AM.

Marijke Rowland
The Modesto Bee
Marijke Rowland writes about new business, restaurant and retail developments. She has been with The Modesto Bee since 1997 covering a variety of topics including arts and entertainment. Her Business Beat column runs multiple times a week. And it’s pronounced Mar-eye-ke. Support my work with a digital subscription
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