Farmer favorite Crows Landing restaurant finds new owners who vow to keep traditions
Monique Costa’s accomplishments for her age keep getting more impressive.
She started working at the Farmers’ Den at age 15. She has kept working since then at the popular ag-community restaurant. And now, at age 20, she is the owner of the Crows Landing Road establishment.
Costa, and her mother, Evelyn, took over as co-owners of the popular farmers hangout at the start of April. The women previously both worked as staff at the small rural eatery. Then last year, the Green family, which founded the restaurant, asked if Costa might be interested in buying the place.
Costa said she had previously spoken with the owner about taking over if he wanted to sell. But the pandemic accelerated the timeline. After coming to an agreement last year, the 2018 Turlock High graduate has been largely managing the day-to-day operation. With the full transfer of ownership this spring, she has made a few small changes and personal touches.
“I love this place. The people who come in here are like family to me,” she said. “I’ve been coming here since I was little. I want this place to feel like home for everyone.”
Costa is determined to keep the restaurant’s traditions alive. That means giving keys to longtime loyal customers who want their coffee before the place opens for the day. Keeping all of the menu items the same, but adding a couple of new dishes. And allowing the farm clientele to keep a tab they have to pay only once a month for their meals.
Restaurant opened in rural Stanislaus County in 2005
It’s those little things that have helped turn the roadside restaurant into a fixture for many who live in the area, amid the dairy farms and nut orchards. First opened in 2005 by the Green family, the restaurant has become an oasis for many as it sits kitty-corner from Mountain View Middle School at the intersection of Crows Landing Road and Main Street.
Many of its unique aspects, including giving around half a dozen farmers the keys to the restaurant so they can open at 4:30 a.m. before staff arrives, will continue under the Costas.
The restaurant serves a hearty breakfast and lunch daily, and you can find country classics like chicken-fried steak, biscuits and gravy, a linguica scramble and a breakfast burrito on its menu. The restaurant also serves around two dozen different burgers and sandwiches. Most items run between $10.99 and $12.99.
Since taking over, Costa has added a couple of items to the menu, including a tri-tip sandwich and pork chops, and started using sunny plastic tablecloths in the 65-person-capacity dining room. Down the road, she might consider extending its hours to include dinner service or expanding the eatery’s Thursday night prime rib and ribeye specials, which will return this month.
Costa and her mother have a long history with the restaurant. Having grown up on a dairy farm, the younger Costa started going to the Farmer’s Den when she was 5 years old, and she regularly stopped by before school to get something to eat or drink. Evelyn Costa, who works as a bus driver for Turlock Unified School District, joined the staff after her daughter, on her recommendation. The elder Costa also has some other restaurant experience, briefly owning a spot in Gustine over a decade ago.
New owner keeping veteran staff at eatery
Monique Costa works at the site daily, while her mother helps out during weekends and when school isn’t in session. Besides being a full-time business owner, Costa is studying for her communications degree at nearby California State University, Stanislaus.
Last year, the Costas and the Greens had to contend with the ongoing COVID-19 safety restrictions and shutdowns. The restaurant closed for a while, then pivoted to takeout like so many eateries across the Valley and country.
Since returning to full service and inside dining, Costa estimates a good 85% of their customers have returned. Some, particularly the older regulars, still are wary, she said. Still, she has managed to keep all the same about 10-person staff, including some who have worked there since it first opened. Comparatively, she is one of the relative short-timers at the restaurant, with “newer” servers averaging about eight years at the Den.
But Monique Costa said even though she’s younger and newer than some, she wants to keep the restaurant a stable presence for the rural community.
“Personally, I think if it’s working, don’t change it,” she said. “I hope people see the care we take with this place.”
Farmers’ Den, at 9952 Crows Landing Road, is open 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily. For more information, call 209-669-6541 or visit www.facebook.com/FarmersDenCA.
This story was originally published June 3, 2021 at 4:00 AM.
