Bye My Chef, hello Delicioso. New restaurant with fine dining roots opens in Modesto
With a name like Delicioso, you’re setting the expectations pretty high for your restaurant.
Fortunately owner and chef Miguel Martinez has the experience and expertise to meet them. The longtime Modesto chef has opened his first full-service eatery in the former My Chef & Catering space at the corner of H and 14th streets in downtown Modesto.
My Chef owner Lincoln Capitao had run this restaurant out of a car wash on Oakdale Road for some two decades before moving downtown in 2012. It sat kitty-corner from the former Modesto Bee building and over the years I’d eaten many a chef salad made by Lincoln. But after 30 years working he decided to close the restaurant, still keeping the catering side open.
But diners didn’t have to wait long for something new to take its place. A day after My Chef closed Jan. 31, Delicioso by Mr. & Mrs. Restaurant was ready and open for business.
The restaurant is an expansion of Martinez’s former ice cream and taco shop by the same name in west Modesto. He opened the small space at the corner of I and 4th street in July 2017. At the same time he started his catering business serving corporate events, weddings, banquets and more.
Martinez and his wife of over 20 years, Leticia, are the namesake Mr. and Mrs.. Now 39, Martinez started working in restaurants when he was 19, a couple years after his family came from Mexico to Modesto. One of his first jobs was as a pizza-maker at downtown Modesto’s Galletto Ristorante. He worked his way up to become the pastry assistant at the upscale Italian restaurant.
A fine-dining pedigree
He continued his fine-dining pedigree after leaving Galletto, first as pastry chef at Surla’s Restaurant on 12th Street and then as sous-chef at Lola Bistro in Hilmar and chef at Dewz on J Street. Throughout much of his time working at some of the region’s best-known independent restaurants he also worked at Marie Callender’s in northeast Modesto.
He spent 15 years working at the national restaurant chain and credits his general manager and mentor there, David Tokar — who now owns River’s Edge in Knights Ferry — with helping guide his career to where it is today.
While successful running his small shop in west Modesto, Martinez said he missed creating a diverse menu of food. The tiny spot with two tables did not have a full kitchen and his tacos were made on a portable cart. He also served ice cream and other sweet snacks from the store like crepes, mangonadas and fruit cups.
“But I wasn’t happy as a chef. I liked having the ice cream shop, but I’m not an ice cream man,” he said. “Where’s my fire, where’s my sizzle?”
About six months ago he started talking with Capitao about taking over the downtown spot. Martinez now runs his restaurant and catering business out of the space, and is thrilled at the possibilities with his new menu.
Delicioso is starting out serving primarily Mexican food, including the tacos he became known for on the west side as well as an assortment of tortas (Mexican-style sandwiches) and appetizers. His taco plates run $3.99 and include rice or beans and his tortas range from around $7 to $9.
Expect an eclectic menu
He is currently serving lunch and dinner, but plans to add breakfast service in about a month. In the next few weeks he should also get his liquor permit and be able to serve wine and beer.
The current menu hints at what’s to come, including the Italian favorite fritto misto (shrimp, calamari with an assortment of tempura-fried vegetables) and garlic truffle fries. In the future he plans to incorporate more dishes from his fine-dining past including steaks, pastas and desserts that showcase his breadth of skills in Italian, French and American cuisines.
Still, he wants to bring his Mexican heritage into all of his food, regardless of its origin. For example, he subs in tequila instead of the traditional brandy or cognac in his tiramisu. And he also strives to make his dishes look as good as they taste.
“I’m trying to bring every single dish I’ve cooked over the years, but with a Latino kick. So think spicy and crunch,” he said. “And plating is my passion because people eat with their eyes first.”
After years of working in other people’s kitchens, Martinez is thrilled to have his own. But he stresses that his new restaurant is a family affair. His wife, children, father (who owns a taqueria in Mexico), and siblings (many of whom are also local chefs) all help out in various ways both inside the kitchen and outside.
“It’s not a fancy restaurant, but I don’t believe you have to eat fancy to eat good,” he said. “Everyone deserves a great meal at a decent price.”
Delicioso by Mr. & Mrs. Restaurant, 1410 H St. in Modesto, is open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 11 p.m. for dinner Monday to Saturday. Closed Sunday. For more information call 209-918-3857 or visit www.facebook.com/DeliciosobyMrMrs.
