Biz Beat

Turlock’s iconic Latif’s restaurant changes hands; new owner has deep valley roots

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It doesn’t get much more old-school Turlock than a slice of pie at Latif’s.

The restaurant known for its homemade pies, presidential visitors and retro decor is as much a Turlock institution as the train tracks that bisect the heart of the city. But now, after more than 60 years of family ownership, the restaurant is changing hands as its previous owner is retiring.

But, don’t worry, it’s going to another well-known valley family with plenty of Turlock lore attached.

Nick Pedretti, grandson of Ezio “Atch” Pedretti, the famed Turlock High coach and namesake of the city’s Pedretti Park, took over ownership of Latif’s Restaurant earlier this month. Now called Latif’s by Pedretti, the diner on Golden State Boulevard will remain a vintage oasis with a few modern touches.

Pedretti, who for the past eight years served as general manager for Dust Bowl Brewing Company’s downtown taproom, decided to strike out on his own with the Latif’s purchase. First opened by founder and namesake Charles Latif in 1953, Latif’s has served Turlock for more than six decades.

Then in 1971, Latif sold to Jim Stevens, who helped make its pies famous in the region. His son, Robert Stevens, took over the family’s ownership in the early 2000s.

Server Karla Garcia takes an order at Latif’s in Turlock, Calif. on Wednesday November 20, 2019.
Server Karla Garcia takes an order at Latif’s in Turlock, Calif. on Wednesday November 20, 2019. Joan Barnett Lee jlee@modbee.com

In 1988, then-presidential candidate George H. W. Bush and wife Barbara Bush visited Latif’s during a campaign trip to the Central Valley and sat at one of its horseshoe-shaped counters. Plaques still hang proudly on the backs of their stools that read: “President George H. W. Bush sat here 10-15-88” and “First Lady Barbara Bush sat here 10-15-88.” The wall by the cash register also has pictures of that historic day, and other famous faces to have stopped by the restaurant.

Latif’s opened in its current building, striking for its untouched mid-century design, in 1960. Both the spot’s vintage look and everyone-knows-your-name feel is something Pedretti said he is serious about preserving.

“This place has been around forever, and I used to come here when I was a little kid,” he said. “We just want to remind people that (Latif’s) is still here and we’re not going anywhere.”

Exterior of Latif’s on Golden State Blvd in Turlock, Calif. is pictured on Wednesday November 20, 2019.
Exterior of Latif’s on Golden State Blvd in Turlock, Calif. is pictured on Wednesday November 20, 2019. Joan Barnett Lee jlee@modbee.com

The restaurant currently only serves breakfast and lunch, but Pedretti plans to bring back dinner service in coming months. He is also adding beer and wine sales, which should start in about three to four months, once licensing is complete.

The menu will see similar small tweaks, but expect all of the die-hard favorites and traditional dishes to remain the same. But now you’ll also find new dishes like Breakfast Sliders (two scratch-made biscuits piled with gravy, eggs, cheddar cheese and country gravy for $10.99) and the Hollandaise Burrito Supreme (burrito filled with scrambled eggs, country potatoes, grilled onions and peppers, cheese, Hollandaise sauce and choice of meats for $11.99).

Once dinner is added, expect comfort food staples like chicken pot pie, meat loaf and some Italian family recipes.

“We want stuff here that it feels like your grandma and grandpa made it for you,” Pedretti said.

Piemaker Paula Loomis takes a pie out of the oven at Latif’s in Turlock, Calif. on Wednesday November 20, 2019.
Piemaker Paula Loomis takes a pie out of the oven at Latif’s in Turlock, Calif. on Wednesday November 20, 2019. Joan Barnett Lee jlee@modbee.com

And, of course, there will be pie. Paula Loomis, the restaurant’s piemaker for close to 40 years, remains on staff and comes in before the sun rises to make the signature pies daily. The restaurant sells about a dozen varieties, all scratch made, including pumpkin, pecan, berry, apple and many more.

Pedretti plans to put Loomis’ bakery skills to more use. Her fresh-made cinnamon rolls and banana bread, which were previously only weekend or special occasion items, will be put on the regular menu.

The restaurant has also retained all of its about 15 staff, including some longtime servers and chefs who have been with Latif’s for more than 30 years. The new owner has also enlisted his parents, Sue and Dan Pedretti, who recently retired but have been at the restaurant nearly daily helping out — from greeting guests to bussing tables.

As for the interior and exterior design, expect some fresh paint and maybe some repairs. But so far, Pedretti’s only concession to modernism has been the addition of three flat-panel TVs, which he said he hopes will encourage younger customers in particular to linger longer.

Breakfast sliders are pictured at Latif’s in Turlock, Calif. on Wednesday November 20, 2019.
Breakfast sliders are pictured at Latif’s in Turlock, Calif. on Wednesday November 20, 2019. Joan Barnett Lee jlee@modbee.com

The main dining area, split into the front and back rooms, seats about 160. An upstairs banquet room fits another 65. Pedretti wants to replace the old carpet flooring and fix up the second-floor space to make it more available for private rentals and various events. Latif’s big yellow outdoor sign will also be repaired, and will light up the night again.

But the brightly colored accents, floating booths, chrome accents and cinder block walls will remain intact.

“People pay a lot of money to get things to look like this now,” Pedretti said. “We’re not changing a thing.”

Latif’s, at 111 N. Golden State Boulevard in Turlock, is open 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday to Saturday and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 209-634-5351 or visit www.latifsrestaurant.com.

Elsewhere around the Business Beat:

Fans of Marie Callender’s won’t be able to enjoy Thanksgiving at the restaurant — or its pies — after all.

Instead, they’ll have to wait a little longer for the north Modesto location to reopen. While new franchise owner Jim Nelson had hoped to have both pie orders and the full restaurant reopened before the holiday, the schedule has now been pushed back until at least December. Nelson said work in the north Modesto restaurant continues, particularly needed plumbing repair.

He said Marie Callender’s corporate office will now handle the reopening schedule for the restaurant, which abruptly closed seemingly for good in early August. He has been busy since the announcement late last month of the return of the Sylvan Avenue restaurant handling the reopening of another Marie Callender’s franchise he purchased in Salt Lake City.

“We wanted to get open before (Thanksgiving), but we wanted to make sure everything was done 100 percent right,” he said. “We’re still working on it.”

But don’t worry, Marie Callender’s pie lovers, when a new reopen date is set, I’ll let you know here first thing. Though, if you’re still looking for pies for Thanksgiving, Latif’s is also an excellent local choice. Just saying.

This story was originally published November 20, 2019 at 5:13 PM.

Marijke Rowland
The Modesto Bee
Marijke Rowland writes about new business, restaurant and retail developments. She has been with The Modesto Bee since 1997 covering a variety of topics including arts and entertainment. Her Business Beat column runs multiple times a week. And it’s pronounced Mar-eye-ke. Support my work with a digital subscription
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