Sangria a great way for red wine to chill out

Temperatures in or near the triple digits send even wine lovers scurrying for iced beverages, but they won't give up their beloved bottles of red for the sake of cool.

Instead, they follow the tradition of the Spaniards and use red wine in sangria, which comes from the Spanish word "sangre," meaning blood. The popular beverage, served over ice, mixes in such flavors as sweet port, fresh orange slices and cinnamon.

"When I think of sangria, it's informal, communal and definitely summer," said Paul Tremayne, who offers sangria at Concetta restaurant in downtown Modesto. "One of my summer favorites is making paella on the grill for friends. Everything from the paella to the sangria is shared in one pot or pitcher."

No cheap stuff for Tremayne, either. He uses a good, dry red wine.

"Some say use a cheap red, but if you put lipstick on a pig, it's still a pig. I also don't like sangria too sweet, so I don't use a fruit-bomb red."

He recommends Silkwood Red Duet, a moderately priced cabernat-syrah blend.

"I use Patron Citronage orange liquor because it has good orange flavor and is less expensive than Gran Marnier or Cointreau," he said.

Tremayne also likes cherries, apples and peaches with the traditional lemons and oranges.

"They soak up the wine, are better to nosh on and look great, too," he said.

In the late '50s, as Spain turned into a country of tourism, pubs and bars began selling the drink as an inexpensive social lubricant by adding cognac or other brandies to the classic drink, according to Sacramento's Aioli Bodega Espanola owner Reda Bellarbi, whose family is from Cordoba, Spain.

Although the history of the punch — called "zurra" when it's made with white wine — is difficult to track, one thing is certain: Ever since it was introduced to the United States at the 1964 World's Fair in New York, it's been labeled the perfect summertime beverage.

When it comes to making the stuff at home, there's no need to buy expensive wine or liqueurs, since you'll add sugar, fruit or other juices. The trick is to modify recipes to your own liking — that's the fun part. Some replace liquor with extra wine or add a favorite type of fruit. Be creative.

The full Spanish experience, though, requires tapas, small-plate offerings that are eaten at almost every bar before lunch and dinner. They're similar to appetizers, said Annie Henrich, a cooking instructor. She will be offering a tapas class July 19 through Modesto Junior College Community Education.

"We will concentrate on fresh seafood — tasty miniature morsels of fresh cod skewers with rosemary and bacon, served with a homemade aioli, fresh salmon in mojo sauce and scallops in saffron sauce served in their shells," said said. The class will be taught at Direct Appliance in Modesto.

Local food industry insiders didn't know of anywhere locally to get the full tapas-sangria experience, although tapas can be found on menus at places such as Bistro 234 in Turlock and small plates at Bacchus Food & Spirits in Modesto.

"We do small plates for special events, like our Rum & Reggae in June," said Todd Kerkhof of Bacchus, "but true Spanish tapas, not around here."

Kerkhof recommends Tapa the World and Aioli Bodega Espanola, both in Sacramento.Paul Ringstrom, owner of Tapa the World and Kasbah Lounge, estimates that on a Friday night at the restaurants, roughly 30 to 40 gallons of sangria are consumed. The sangria, made with red wine, apple juice, orange juice, citrus soda, cinnamon sticks, sugar, fresh oranges and rum, is mild in its kick, but tart and refreshing — a bit like lemonade.

Those making the trek to Sacramento will appreciate knowing that on occasion, Tapa the World will sell batches of its tasty sangria at discounted costs to regular customers wanting to entertain guests at home.

The sangria at Aioli Bodega Espanola, which also has a location on Second Street in Davis, features fresh orange juice cooked with cinnamon (for flavor) and fresh mint (for aroma) strained and mixed with two parts rustic red wine and one part port. It's soaked in a refrigerator for 48 hours and served over ice with an orange slice.

Bellarbi gets this classic recipe from Extremadura (western Spain). Traditional sangria, Bellarbi says, has low alcohol content.

While you're at Aioli, try a cold tapa like the pickled thresher shark or "cazon en escabeche," which is grilled and marinated with caramelized onions in a juniper berry and sherry vinegar. It creates a sweet-and-sour combination with the sangria. Cost is $7.95.

This story was originally published July 8, 2008 at 10:58 PM with the headline "Sangria a great way for red wine to chill out."