They’ve got hot dogs and hot rods; new restaurant honors Modesto’s Graffiti past

Anyone can order a hot dog. Not everyone can order a Hot Rod Dog or a Faros Dog or a Veggie Sue Dog.

No, for that you’ll have to step inside downtown Modesto’s new Graffiti Dogs in Tenth Street Place. The restaurant invites customers to nosh on gourmet dogs and nostalgia, with a name and decor that pay homage to the city’s “American Graffiti” history.

The eatery opened Monday and is serving breakfast, lunch and dinner on a bun, as well as sandwiches, salads and assorted sides. Graffiti Dogs has taken over the site that was the longtime home to Loard’s Ice Cream & Sandwich Shop before its closure this past June. First-time restauranteur Linda Abeldt owns the place with her husband, former longtime Manteca police spokesman Rex Osborn.

Their concept was simple, to celebrate the city’s car culture and Graffiti past with the all-American food. But the hot dogs themselves are anything but simple. First, they start with a quarter-pound all-beef frank. Then they load it with up to a dozen toppings.

Take their signature Graffiti Dog. It’s got onion relish, bacon jam, sauerkraut, bleu cheese, sauteed bell peppers, tomatoes, pesto aioli and brown mustard, and it’s all topped off with onion strings. Or the Veggie Sue Dog, which comes with sauteed onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, olives and spinach in pesto, feta cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and brown mustard. Abeldt calls them “knife-and-fork” dogs for good reason.

The restaurant features 12 different kinds of dogs with Graffiti-themed names, ranging from chili cheese dogs (the Wolfman Jack) to Chicago dogs (the T-Bird) and pastrami dogs (the Hot Rod) and even the Cop Dog — loaded with gourmet mac-and-cheese and bacon jam (but sorry, no doughnut bun).

You can have your order made with a regular 8-inch beef frank, a bratwurst or a vegan hot dog on a regular or gluten-free bun. Breakfast lovers can pick from four different dogs loaded with scrambled eggs and an assortment of other toppings.

“We thought there was a real need in Modesto for a gourmet dog shop, because there really weren’t any in the city,” Abeldt said.

For the past three months, they’ve been taste testing their menu. They started with 25 dogs and have narrowed it to their favorite dozen. Head Chef Dane Barry prides himself on homemaking many of the toppings, from the chili to the bacon jam and onion relish. Also, those chips that come served on the side of all the dogs? Yep, they’re housemade, too. They also source as much of their products locally as they can — from the franks to the buns and produce.

You can also choose from about half a dozen sandwiches ranging from pastrami to BLT and chicken salad. And yes, if you must, there are salads – if you’re into that kind of thing. The hot dogs run from $7.50 to $8.99 and are definitely meal-sized. Wash it all down with a selection of beer on draft or wine-by-the-glass. For the small fries among us, Graffiti Dogs has a kiddie menu. And then, because no hot dog dinner would be complete without a sweet treat at the end, they’ll have soft-serve ice cream for cones, floats, shakes and more.

The decor is garage shop chic. Metal diamond-plate sheets make up the backsplash. The front half of a vintage Volkswagen Beetle hangs on the back wall. Faux license plates make up the “Order Here” and “Pick Up” signs. And the walls are adorned with pictures of vehicles from local car clubs. Even Abeldt and Osborn’s own cars — a 1956 Ford pickup and 1961 Jeep — have a spot of honor on the wall. And, if you look closely, you’ll find a framed “American Graffiti” script signed by the cast.

The restaurant seats more than 30 inside, with another 25 outside on its open patio with wooden picnic tables. Abeldt has hired a staff of 13 to open the restaurant.

Graffiti Dogs at 1002 10th St. will be open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. For more information, call 209-238-9990 or visit www.facebook.com/Graffiti-Dogs-239418956844408.

This story was originally published September 8, 2018 at 3:15 PM.