Sunday, Aug. 10, 2008

We wintered in South America

Except for being trampled by a horse and being pickpocketed on the subway, my summer vacation was splendid.

No, it really was.

My family, including my husband, Paul, son, Jake, 12, and daughter, Sina,7, went on a three-week adventure to South America. When it's summer here, it's winter there. I love Modesto, but this time I was happy to trade 100-degree heat for something cooler and more exotic.

Having been raised overseas while my father was a director in the Peace Corps, I am eager to share world travel with my children. This was my daughter's first trip overseas -- and what a traveler she turned out to be!

We chose Argentina so that we could visit friends, the Feldhaus family -- natives of Modesto who moved to Argentina in January.

After a 20-hour-plus trip, including an incredible flight over the Andes from beautiful

Santiago, Chile, we landed just across the border in Mendoza, a city in western Argentina in the Andes foothills.

Our first day there, as guests of the Feldhaus family, we went horseback riding in the hills, through the famous Mendoza wine country. Other than the tumble I took from a spirited horse, the ride was spectacular.

OK, the details: My horse was spirited anyway, but when Jake's horse bucked, he kicked my horse, who reared, knocking me off. I got a little trampled and came out of the dustup with a black eye and knot on my noggin.

Get the picture? Not exactly the way I envisioned it -- you know, gaucho gal, galloping gallantly across the pampas, wind in my hair ...

Maybe next time.

Buenos Aires and beyond

From Mendoza, we took a luxurious double-decker overnight sleeper bus to Buenos Aires, where we spent three days sightseeing, taking walking and "subte" (subway) tours of Argentina's capital.

Our highlight was the architecturally splendiferous Cementerio de la Recoleta, a cemetery of mausoleums where all the rich and famous of Argentina are buried (such as Evita, the famous and ill-starred radio queen Eva Duarte who, 60 years ago, became the toast of Argentina as the youthful bride of President Juan Peron).

The lowlight of our Buenos Aires visit was me being a pickpocket victim on the subway. It stunned me and hurt my pride. I know better; I'm a veteran traveler; I know what precautions to take and what to look out for. But I let my guard down, and when I looked up, my pesos were gone.

Live and learn ...

The "buquebus" (ferry) to Uruguay travels three hours across the Río de la Plata to of Colonia de Sacramento, where we spent a day exploring old forts, strolling cobblestone streets and eating "milanesa con papas fritas con huevos" (french fries topped with a fried egg!)

Back to Buenos Aires on the catamaran (fast boat) and off to the highlight of our trip: Iguazu Falls ...

The falls -- one of the absolute natural wonders of the world -- are tucked into the tropical rain forest of northeastern Argentina, a frontier shared by three countries: Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil.

We enjoyed four days hiking throughout Iguazu National Park, primarily visiting the famous waterfalls -- an overwhelming sensory experience: gurgling white cascades, the roar of rushing water, sweet and humid jungle aromas ...

Top of the highlight list? We actually took a boat ride into the falls.

Our most incredible hike was on a walkway right across the upper river to the Garganta del Diablo (the Devil's Throat). We stood on a precipice just a few feet from the edge of the falls and could see the water plunge into the cauldron below.