Wine: Second labels offer first-rate quality

By Tom Bender

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Last year, an overwhelming number of start-ups hit the market with releases priced above $50, and some approaching $100. Even though these labels carry big-name vineyards or notable winemakers as consultants, these wines aren't selling in this economy.

Well-established Napa wineries with pricey cabernet sauvignon offerings have met similar fates; many have been slow to make price adjustments to entice buyers.

Many have created special buying opportunities for restaurants but not wine shops or retail stores. They don't want to see their wines discounted on store shelves. But they forget that high-end restaurants are suffering, too, and are hesitant to discount wines brought in at these special prices. So, many wineries continue to sit on inventory in the midst of a harvest that sees major grape price reductions for cabernet.

Fortunately, there are a growing number of quality Napa Valley cabernets being produced by highly regarded wineries under second labels, or the excess wine is sold to individuals who bottle and sell it under proprietary labels. Here are a few:

Leaping Lizard 2006 cab

Produced by Adler Fels Winery in Sonoma; the Napa fruit is aged in new and old oak for 18 months. A house blend of 80 percent Napa cabernet and five other grapes. About $15.

Edge 2006 cab

This winery sources fruit from throughout Napa Valley. Mostly cabernet with a small amount of merlot; it spent 16 months in French and American oak barrels, of which 30 percent were new. Ripe fruit with a touch of tannins that will allow for some cellaring. About $19.

Twenty Bench 2006 cab

Produced by Regusci Cellars in Napa Valley's Stags Leap area, 94 percent cabernet and 6 percent merlot. This wine had the best structure and depth of the group. About $20.

Bommarito 2005 cab

Produced by the reputable Whitehall Lane Winery in Napa; it is blended with some merlot and aged 17 months in American oak. About $20.

Ca'Momi 2006 cab

A new producer; the wine's name is Italian for "house of Momi" and named after a 1920s grower in Napa Valley who is thought to haunt the vineyard. Shows a nice touch of spice and fruit in the mix. About $16.

Wine picks are from Tom Bender, wine instructor at Columbia College and wine steward for O'Brien's Market, 4120 Dale Road, Modesto, 545-8100. E-mail him at wineguy@goldrush.com or tom@obriensmarket.com.