Wine: It's barbera time: Red is right at home in the heat

By Tom Bender

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If wine is on your holiday shopping list, more than likely it includes a chilled white.

But recent industry stats tell us that red wine continues to grow in popularity regardless of the season or heat.

Over the past week, barbera kept popping up at wine-tastings.

Its bright berry character, coupled with nice acidity, makes it ideal with most grilling themes, manageable with the summer heat, and a candidate for drinking July Fourth.

Piedmont in Italy is the source of most imported barberas, and their style has changed over the years to be fuller and riper while still retaining its balance.

Locally, Sonoma and, to a bigger extent, the Sierra foothills have sparked wonderful examples of this food-friendly red.

Cantine Valpone 2006

Imported by Kermit Lynch, the highly regarded importer in Berkeley, this barbera shows some licorice and earthy spice aromas that carry through to easy-to-drink berry flavors. About $13.

Germano Angelo 2007

From a highly regarded Italian family estate in Alba, this Germano Angelo is almost California in style, showing ripe opulent fruit and a wonderful spiced aroma of anise and dark berries. Grilled vegetables and Italian sausages would pair well. About $24.

Zucca Mountain 2007

Cooper Vineyard in Amador County long has been considered an outstanding source for barbera and the Zuccas have produced this classic foothill red for several vintages. This barbera shows ample spice and nicely balanced acidity that does not interfere with its long finish. Zucca also has released a 2007 barbera from Villa Valecito Vineyard, a nearby Calaveras County neighbor, that is equally good. About $32.

Frogs Tooth 2007

Here's a barbera that will stop you in your tracks. Extremely aromatic with plenty of berry, anise and a modest touch of oak. Flavors are accented by more berry and dry spice that won't end. From grapes in El Dorado County, here is another example showing the range of successful foothill vineyards producing this underappreciated grape. This Calaveras County red is a terrific grilling wine for the Fourth. About $22.

Wine picks are from Tom Bender, wine instructor at Columbia College and wine steward for O'Brien's Market, 4120 Dale Road, Modesto, 545-8100. E-mail him at wineguy@goldrush.com or tom@obriensmarket.com.