Does your lawn have bare spots? Early fall is a good time to fix them

By Ed Perry
ejperry@ucdavis.edu

E-Mail

Comments (0)

Text Size:

tool goes here

Many lawns deteriorate from poor maintenance, inadequate drainage, heavy traffic, pest problems, weed invasions, or simply because the wrong grass species was planted. If localized areas of dead or dying grass have developed in your lawn, you may want to consider patching the spots, rather than doing a complete renovation.

Begin the patching process by digging up the affected grass and removing the dead or weed-infested area. Use a shovel or a spade and dig a square around the area to a depth of about 2 inches. Dig beyond the dead spot to about 6 inches on all sides. You now need to cultivate the soil before you replant. With a garden rake, remove any debris that is present, such as old roots or other plant parts. Work the soil to break up clods and remove remaining weeds.

You may want to add a soil amendment to the spot, especially if your soil is a heavy clay, or very sandy. Compost is one of the easiest organic materials to use. Add a layer of compost 1 to 2 inches deep over the spot, and till it into the soil to a depth of 3 to 6 inches. At this time you also can add a starter fertilizer containing both nitrogen and phosphorus, tilling it into the soil along with the amendment.

Use a rake to do the final grading, making sure that the planting site is firm and level. Irrigate the site and allow it to settle before planting.

Patch your lawn with seed or sod. Be sure to choose a species, or mix of species, that matches the surrounding lawn. If you decide to use seed, plant by hand at a slightly higher rate than recommended. Cover the seed to a depth of 1/16- to 1/8-inch by raking it in and lightly rolling or firming the soil.

For summer turf establishment, spread a thin layer of mulch (no more than �-inch thick) over the seeds with a rake for protection. Keep the soil moist during the germination period by applying frequent but light irrigations. Early fall is a good time of year to patch a lawn using seed. Seed is also the least expensive method. A disadvantage is that seed is susceptible to weed invasions and seedling diseases. It may take 10 to 15 weeks before a seeded turf can handle traffic. Also, it may take a while to establish uniform coverage, and requires high maintenance with water needs and weed control.

If you decide to use sod, cut pieces to fit the area you need and lay them down. Use a sharpened masonry trowel or carpet knife to cut the pieces. After the sod is laid, roll it immediately with a lawn roller and keep it moist until well rooted. After planting, keep the area moist and weed free until the grass becomes established. Sod is the most expensive method, but it has many advantages. Sod gives the best quality turf of all methods, and has the fewest weed invasions than with other methods. Sod can generally handle traffic within two to three weeks of planting. Less frequent irrigation is required, and less maintenance is needed than other methods.

Bare spots in lawn are usually the result of a pest or disease problem, or a problem related to poor drainage or soil compaction. Before you begin to patch dead or weedy spots, be sure to find the cause of the problem and solve it.

Ed Perry, a farm adviser with the UC Cooperative Extension, can be contacted at 525-6800 or ejperry@ucdavis.edu.