Thursday, January 08, 2009

By KERRY MCCRAY
kmccray@modbee.com

last updated: August 27, 2008 09:49:59 AM

Apparently, there are people out there who don't like deviled eggs, and my husband is one of them.

I didn't know this until I picked a variety of deviled egg recipes to try out for this week's column. I was looking for an end-of-summer, party-type dish, and decided on one of my childhood favorites — deviled eggs.

When my husband told me he was planning on being out of the house while I made them — he says the smell makes him sick — I was crushed. How can someone not like deviled eggs? What's not to like about a comforting mash of egg yolks, mayonnaise, mustard and paprika. It can't get better than that.

At least, I thought it couldn't. Then I looked online for deviled egg recipes. Chefs and home cooks have come up with hundreds of luscious-sounding variations, most of them nothing like the deviled eggs of my youth.

Think wasabi deviled eggs, shrimp-stuffed eggs, tuna-stuffed eggs, deviled eggs with jalapeños and hot pepper sauce. I even found a recipe for fried deviled eggs, in which the stuffed eggs are dredged in flour, dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in panko and, yes, fried in oil.

Because there is so much variety out there, I decided to send out several deviled egg recipes to our testers and let them decide which one they liked best.

I secretly hoped someone would pick the fried deviled eggs. But I had to admit they were a bit much, even for me. I have great memories of deviled eggs the way my mother made them, with mayonnaise, yellow mustard, pickle relish and nothing else. If it were a special occasion, like Christmas or Thanksgiving, she might mix in a little chopped shrimp.

In that vein, I chose the shrimp-stuffed eggs. This recipe, from the Food Network's Paula Deen, screamed creamy goodness. Again, what's not to like? Shrimp, mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard. Sounded like a winner to me.

Shopping was easy, and made me realize just how economical deviled eggs are: one dozen eggs, $1.99; baby dill, $1.79; one lemon, 40 cents; a handful of shrimp, 84 cents. Total cost: $5.02. I can't think of many appetizers you can make for less.

Preparation went OK. I read that you should cover the eggs with cold water and bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat, put the lid on the pot and let the eggs sit for about 10 minutes. This worked, but I forgot to put the eggs in ice water before I peeled them. I nearly burned the tips of my fingers, but then I ran the eggs under cold water and everything was fine.

Peeling the eggs was more difficult than I expected. The shells didn't come off perfectly, and my egg whites were a little worse for wear.

The filling was delicious. A little gooshier than my mom's version (because of the sour cream?), but wonderfully flavorful.

The shrimp added flavor and texture, the lemon cut the richness, and the dill gave a much-needed bite.

What's not to like? Now, if only I could convince my husband.

Bee staff writer Kerry McCray can be reached at 578-2358 or at kmccray@modbee.com.

This was a great idea. I really enjoyed reading through all the recipes.

I picked three to try:

• The bacon and cheese deviled eggs were good, but I think they need a stronger flavor; I'll try smoked cheese next time. There's also a slight sweetness from the honey mustard.

• My favorite was the ham and egg with the sour cream. It has a very smooth consistency and would be a good hors d'oeuvre on crackers or as an egg salad sandwich.

• The deviled eggs with brown mustard and capers have a marinated flavor that is really interesting. I'd double the vinegar and hot sauce because I like a little zip.

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